Thoughts...

Thus far I feel as though I've been updating you all on my travels in Jordan, without really speaking my mind. It's unlike me, so prepare yourself from some rambling tonight.

Life here is so different than in America. There's no conception of an 8-5 job, work is an all day affair beginning and ending late due to the constant need for tea and cigarette breaks. It's completely normal for families to pull over on the side of the road and have a picnic. Everyone litters. The call to prayer is broadcasts five times a day and can be heard throughout the city. My classmates and I are constantly inundated with the phrase, "Welcome to Jordan!" on the streets. Fresh meat hangs in storefronts all around the city. The only form of entertainment is hookah, coffee, and good conversation. Girls are really only welcome in cafe's that display "Couple's Welcome" signs. The whole country really just feels like a boy's club, but none of it is done in spite. Sure, Arab men may have their negative attributes and so many of the cultural norms are antithetical to American ideals, but it doesn't negate their legitimacy, just makes them harder for us (as Americans) to understand. Women are respected here, they really are, just in a different way. Of course there are exceptions to the rule, but for the most part I feel as though women and somewhat revered. Still don't fully understand the complex situation that is women's rights in the Middle East, but my time here has been encouraging. Being a male, however, I don't know if I have a right to feel the way I do.

I've had a really productive day and want to tell you all about it. Ok, first, I've been searching for a piano since I got here but have had zero luck. Everyone looks at me like I've lost my mind when I ask if there is a piano anywhere on campus that I could play! But today I talked to our program director and he got me an appointment with one of the teachers at the music center on campus tomorrow afternoon. He didn't really specify if that included an opportunity to play the piano, but it sounds really interesting and he told me they had a lot of "musical devices" over there, whatever the hell that means. Maybe I'll learn to play the Udd or something!

Also, I've been really bored in the afternoons to say the least. Well, I was thinking and decided to talk to someone about maybe doing some community service while I'm here. Maybe working with kids at a camp teaching english or music. I would even be willing to do some yard work or road side clean up. Don't really care just feel like I should at least try and make a difference while I'm here. So the man I was talking to about my interests in community service called a friend of his at one of the local churches and they asked that I write a letter explaing my interests/qualifications and said they would get in touch with me. Exciting stuff! They mentioned a kid's camp or something and I really hope that works out. I think it would be good for the kids to spend some time with an American and know that I would benefit even more than them. The older I get the more I realize that kids make my heart warm... most of the time, that is.

Oh, let's talk about driving here. First, people use their horns incessantly... so annoying. Everyday there is a wedding caravan, or four (more like 12) in the city and everyone in the group of cars honks as loud and as much as possible. Also, the University has been holding graduation over the past week, another excuse for people to scream and honk with their graduates hanging out of the window or standing up through the sun roof. I feel like it's wrong to be upset with them for this, as I realize graduation is a big deal, but seriously, they could tone down the honking. Oh, and how could I forget the World Cup and its accompanying festivities. Crazy driving, flags out of the window, of course more honking, and crazy teenagers doing very dangerous things in their vehicles. Second, their aren't really lanes here per say. Everyone just makes their own path, using their horns to inform other cars or their plans to pass. Third, Jordanians have no patience for pedestrians. The American sentiment that pedestrians have the right of way is, by all means, NOT true in this country. It's get out of the way or get honked at then hit. And fourth, traffic signals seem a bit optional. I mean, not really, but they definitely aren't as strictly adhered to as in the states.

Food... oh, Arab food. Most of it is delicious, don't get me wrong. I absolutely love a good lamb shwarma sandwich, or some refreshing hummous and ful with fresh vegetables and tea. But, as my friend Katharine and I were discussing the other day, they just don't seem to understand the concept of a full meal, complete with a salad, main course, two sides, and bread. Perhaps we aren't getting the best read on food in Jordan because we have to eat out every meal. Who knows?

On Friday one of our teachers has invited us all to her home for a traditional meal, with the caveat that only Arabic will be spoken. I'm getting used to that caveat. It will be a good time. I can appreciate a home cooked meal in any country.

I'm tired and need sleep. Finally have gotten into a routine and feel settled. Time is flying by, now. I'll be home before I know it.

Miss you all.

-Alex

Good times...

I can now say that I’ve been to the sight of Moses’ death and Jesus’ baptism, along with swimming in the Jordan River and the Dead Sea. We had a great time yesterday to say the least. We started at Mt. Nebo and got some great pictures before touring the site of Jesus’ baptism. It’s crazy to think that I was in the same general area as Jesus, John the Baptist, Moses, and so many other people from the Bible. It was somewhat surreal. At the end of our tour we stopped at a beautiful Greek Orthodox church on the bank of the Jordan River. A few of us decided to go swimming and were closely monitored by a Jordanian guard to ensure we didn’t cross into Israeli territory. The river has dried up significantly in the recent past so it was probably only 15 feet wide or so where we took our dip.

After that, we returned to our bus and headed towards the lowest land point on earth: the Dead Sea. I think it’s what we all looked forward to the most. For $10JD we spent around three hours at the public beach, which included access to a large pool as you don’t want to spend too much time in the sea itself. Words cannot describe the way you feel when swimming in the Sea. Because of the insane concentration of salt in the water, you float! I don’t mean that you just feel a little more buoyant than normal; I mean that you can literally sit Indian style or stand up straight or lie on your back in the deep water and be completely comfortable! I learned the hard way that the water also stings really badly if you get it in your eyes or nose. Not a good feeling at all. You can’t really stay in the Sea for too long or it starts to bother your skin, so after a bit we all headed up to the pool. I’m sure you’re all wondering about the obvious clothing dilemma that may face some Muslim women in a pool. To be completely honest, everyone seemed quite normal with the exception of a few wearing full-body wet suits or long one-pieces. It was just really nice to get to sit out by a pool and relax for a couple hours. On the way home we stopped in Amman and got some Chinese food, which was a really nice change of pace food wise.

I’ve been swamped with homework lately. It’s not the most fun thing in the world but hopefully I’m learning a lot.

Happy birthday to my Dad… I love and miss you a lot.

Six weeks left. I think I'll make it.

! سلام

اسكندر

Update

Our trip to Amman yielded quite a few good things: wonderful pictures, good steak, gifts for a few special people back home, and another great experience to add to the book. Our cab driver on the way down explained to me that he had three wives, whom he referred to as madams, with ten kids. I couldn’t tell if he was kidding and really don’t think he was. Who knows, it made for some good conversation as he asked me if any of the girls on the trip with us (Antonia, Katharine, and Sarah) were my “madam.” I explained they were not, and he seemed baffled by they prospect of me being “only friends” with the girls. There were also two Sri Lankan ladies in the mini-bus with us. One lady stayed on the phone the entire time and got all up in Sarah’s space, as she explained once we arrived to Amman. Oh, and at one point I was employed as a make shift parking brake. We pulled over to let the Sri Lankans out and my friend, the bus driver, said: “You’re foot, here!” while pointing at the brake. After getting over the initial confusion, I happily placed my foot on the brake to keep us from rolling away.

The hotel, more of a hostel, we stayed in only cost each of us 7JD (about $10) for the night and it included wireless, a semi-working shower, and free breakfast. I’d say that’s a pretty good deal. No air conditioning, but you seem to get over that luxury while visiting other countries. It also makes you feel a little dumb for your insistence upon air conditioning in the states… I mean, most of the time (except 100 degree/100% humidity summer days in Mississippi), a fan and an open window will do the trick. Sorry for insisting upon 70 degrees at the house, Dad. I’m learning.

What else? Just two days ago one of the guys from another group, Akhram, whose family is from Irbid invited us to his family home for dinner. His mom cooked a wonderful meal, actually the national dish of Jordan: mansaf. It’s lamb cooked over rice with a fermented yogurt sauce. May not sound appealing, but it was actually really delicious after I got over the amount on bones/fat present in the meat. We were then served cake, fruit, and coffee; all Arabic style, of course. It was great to get a look at home life in Jordan and I enjoyed myself thoroughly. I think they want to invite us back and know we would happily accept the invitation!

For those who care, mainly my parents, I made a 9.5 out of 10 on our first test! Hopefully I can keep it up because we have three more tests over the next few days. We’ve been here for about 2 weeks and have about 7 left, which seems like such a long time! Definitely starting to miss a few things about home…

Best news of the week would be that I think we’re going to the Dead Sea this weekend. It’s probably the thing I look forward to the most, although I’ve heard it’s not the nicest place in the world. Still an experience. I’ll keep trying to upload pictures, but no promises.

! سلام

اسكندر

Apologies for my belated update, it's been a busy week of classes. I definitely like some of our professors more than others and class if often frustrating because there is no English, but overall I feel like I'm learning a lot. My favorite class is dialect, for sure. Our exposure to Arabic so far has been purely MSA (Modern Standard Arabic) but no one speaks this on the streets so all of our vocabulary is useless. Even some of the letters are different in dialect so it's like learning an entire new language. Very interesting.

I'm enjoying the food, still, and have found some local favorites along with the occasional Papa John's pizza, Subway turkey sandwich, or KFC chicken tenders. Don't get me wrong, it's not all the same. Islam definitely dictates a lot here so you can't get pork anywhere. I never realized how much we like pork in America. Just think: no ham, no bacon, no sausage. Bummer. The pepperoni was beef at Papa John's and Subway only has turkey ham and beef bacon. They do really love fried chicken here so that's been nice.

A few of us are headed to Amman this weekend and I'm really excited to get to the city. Irbid is quite boring, just a lot of sitting in cafe's drinking coffee, smoking the hookah, and playing cards so it will be a nice change of pace.

I've tried about four different times to upload photos but the hotel internet just doesn't want to cooperate. I'll keep trying because I definitely got a few good ones from our trip to "Umm Qays" and the "Sea of Galilee."

Hope all is well in the states and I miss everyone.

! سلام

اسكندر

In Country

! مرحبا

We all made it safely to Jordan and have enjoyed a relaxing past two days. On the way to Irbid from Amman we stopped at a restaurant and enjoyed our first arabic meal: pita, hummus, falafel, fool, fresh pickled vegetables, and hot tea. Much better hummus and pita than from home. We are staying in a really nice hotel with air conditioning, hot water, wireless, and cable so I should be just fine the next 8 weeks.

There are a couple things I must mention about the culture that I've picked up on in the short time I've been here. First, just about every male smokes cigarettes. And second, no one gets in a hurry. I mean no one, at all, ever. It's great. Just about every stop we made today on our tour consisted of a tea/cigarette break and good conversation. We met our professors after the city/campus tour and I absolutely love them. My arabic is terrible but I was able to hold a conversation without feeling intimidated, which is encouraging. After a much-needed afternoon nap, a few of my classmates and I walked to شارع الجامعة (University Street) and enjoyed a delicious meal of chicken shawarma, which is like shaved rotisserie chicken. The best news from today would be that the arab week begins on Sunday and ends on Thursday so we don't start class for another few days! Tomorrow we'll be visiting some historical ruins and castles outside of Irbid. I'll try and post some pictures when we get back.

،سلام

اسكندر

En Route

I arrived at Jackson International this afternoon around 2:00 for my 3:35 flight only to discover it had been cancelled. Go figure. After a couple hours of waiting, though, the man at the desk had rerouted my friend Konner and I through Detroit and Paris arriving in Amman around 7:25, which is earlier than my previous arrival time. I have a long day of traveling ahead of me but it will all be worth it once I arrive. I think I'm finally excited!

Here's "hello" in Arabic for all of those who may be interested: مرحبا (pronounced "marhaban")

Post to come when I arrive...

! سلام

اسكندر -